Containers

BobNarley · 05-31-2008, 10:08 AM

Containers
To save space, plants can be germinated in small containers
and transplanted to progressively larger ones.
Seeds can be germinated in 2 X 1 inch trays or in peat pellets
and remain in these containers for about one week.
Four inch diameter containers can hold the plants for 2 to 3
weeks without inhibiting growth.
Styrofoam cups weighted at the bottom with sand or gravel so
they don't tip over are convenient germinating containers. If plants

are to be germinated at one location and then moved to another
location, styrofoam and other lightweight plastic cups are ideal con-
tainers.
Six ounce cups hold plants for about 7-10 days after germina-
tion. Sixteen ounce cups holds plants 10-20 days, as long as the
plants receive frequent water replenishments.
Half gallon containers can support plants for 25-40 days.
Plants probably grow a bit faster without being transplanted.
However, the saving in space for a multi-crop system or even a
multi4ight system more than compensates for the loss in growth
rate. Figure that each transplanting costs the plants 3-4 days of
growth. Growers using a 2 light system need to use only one lamp
for the first 4-6 weeks the plants are growing. Multi-crop gardens
need to use only a fraction of the space for the first 3 to 8 weeks
after germination.
Some growers sex the plants before either the first or second
transplanting. They find it easier to control the light-darkness cycle
in a small space. Another crop's flowering cycle may coincide with
the seedlings. To sex the small plants, only a small area is required
in the grow room.
A good rule of thumb is that for each two feet of growth, a
half gallon of growing medium is required in a garden in which fer-
tilizers are supplied throughout the growing period. A 2 foot plant
requires a ½ gallon container, a 5 foot plant uses a 2½ gallon con-
tainer and a 10 foot plant requires a 5 gallon unit. Of course, plants'
width or depth varies too, so these are approximations. Certainly
there is no harm done in growing a plant in a container larger than
is required. However, growing plants in containers which are too
small delays growth or may even stunt the plants.
Plants growing in soil or compost-based mediums do better in
slightly larger containers. A rule of thumb for them is a 3A gallon
medium for each foot of growth. A 5 foot plant requires a 3 3A
gallon containers.
One grower wrote "I never use more than 4 gallon containers
and have grown plants to 12 feet high with no signs of deficiencies.
I was able to water at 2-3 day intervals. My 3 month old plants
under light were in ½ gallon containers with and without wicks."
This grower always uses small (½ gallon) containers for his spring
greenhouse crop.
A plant growing in an organic-based medium such as soil-
compost-manure and additives needs no fertilization if it is given a
large enough container. For a five month growing season, plants in
a rich mixture require 1 to 1½ gallons medium per foot. A 5 foot
plant requires a container holding 5-7 ½ gallons.
Containers should have a slight graduation so that plants and
medium can slide out easily.
Plastic containers or pots are the most convenient to use. They
are lightweight, do not break and are inert. Metal containers react
with the nutrients in the solution. Plastic bags are convenient con-
tainers. Grow bags have a square bottom so that they balance easi-
ly. However growers use all kinds of plastic bags for cultivation.

Fiber containers are also popular. They are inexpensive, last several
growing seasons and are easy to dispose of.

PART IV.
Planting
Chapter Nineteen
When to Plant
Marijuana growers using only artificial light can start at any
time since the grower determines the plant's environment and
stimulates seasonal variations by adjusting the light/darkness
periods.
Gardeners using natural light either as a primary or secondary
source must take the seasons into account. They plant in the spring
- from April through June. These plants will be harvested between
September and November and no artificial light may be needed as
long as there is plenty of direct sunshine. Supplemental artificial
light may help the plants to maturity in the fall, when the sun's in-
tensity declines and there are overcast days. The angle of the sun's
path changes over the season too. Areas may receive indirect sun
during part of the growing season. In overcast areas, and even sun-
ny places receiving direct sunlight, 4-6 hours of supplemental metal
halide light during the brightest part of the day is all that is needed
during September/October to help the buds mature. One lamp will
cover about 100 square feet or an area 10 by 10 feet.
Growers using natural light are not restricted to one season. It
is feasible to grow 3 or 4 crops a year using supplemental light. In
early October, before the plants are harvested, seeds are started in a
separate area. Since little room is needed for the first few weeks,
they can be germinated on a shelf. In addition to natural light, the
plants should get a minimum of 6 hours of artificial light per day at
the rate of about 10 watts per square foot.
For fastest growth, the plants should receive 24 hours of light a
day. Seedlings may receive light only during normal day light hours
except that they require an interruption of the night cycle so they do
not go into the flowering stage prematurely. If metal halide lamps
are being used, a separate light system should be installed with in-
candescent or fluorescent lights on a timer so that the seedlings do
not have a long period of uninterrupted darkness. One 60 watt in-
candescent bulb or one 22 watt fluorescent tube is used per square
yard (3 by 3 feet). The bulbs can be flashed on for a few minutes us-
ing a multi-cycle timer during the middle of the dark period.
Gardeners with large spaces sometimes stagger the timing of the
night lights.
Incandescent bulbs are not very efficient, but they provide
enough light to prevent flowering, they are easy and inexpensive to
set up and maintain, and they light up almost immediately. In addi-
tion, they emit a high percentage of red light, which is part of the
spectrum used by plants to regulate photoperiod responses. Metal
halides require about 10 minutes to attain full brightness. Metal
halide ballasts wear out faster when they are turned on and off a
lot, so it is cheaper to flash incandescents.

In late December, the incandescents are turned off so that they
no longer interrupt the night cycle. Within a week or two the plants
will begin to flower. They will be ready to harvest in 6 or 8 weeks.
At the same time that the incandescents are turned off the
winter crop, seeds are started for the spring crop. They are kept on
the interrupted night regimen until late winter, around March 1-10.
The plants will begin to flower and be ready in late May and early
June. The spring crop should be planted with short season plants so
that they do not revert back to vegetative growth as the days get
longer. Long season varieties are more likely to revert.
After the flowers are formed, the spring crop plants will revert
back to vegetative growth. New leaves will appear and the plant will
show renewed vigor. The plant can be harvested again in the fall, or
new seeds can be germinated for the fall crop.
One grower reported that he makes full use of his greenhouse.
He starts his plants indoors in late November and starts the flower-
ing cycle in the beginning of February. The plants are ripe by the
end of April, then he lets the plants go back into vegetative growth
for a month and a half. Then he starts to shade them again and
harvests in late August. Next he puts out new, month-old, foot-high
plants. He lets them grow under natural light, but breaks the
darkness cycle using incandescent lights. In mid-September he shuts
the lights off, and the plants mature in early November.

spacedout420 · 07-08-2008, 04:42 PM

Hey thanks man sure helps me out, because i had been wondering about the container sizes.

05-31-2008, 10:08 AM	#1 (permalink)
BobNarley My Mood: Join Date: May 2007 Location: Mojove Desert-Southern California Posts: 530 gRamz: 13,473 Danks: 26 Danked 17 Times in 14 Posts	Containers Containers To save space, plants can be germinated in small containers and transplanted to progressively larger ones. Seeds can be germinated in 2 X 1 inch trays or in peat pellets and remain in these containers for about one week. Four inch diameter containers can hold the plants for 2 to 3 weeks without inhibiting growth. Styrofoam cups weighted at the bottom with sand or gravel so they don't tip over are convenient germinating containers. If plants are to be germinated at one location and then moved to another location, styrofoam and other lightweight plastic cups are ideal con- tainers. Six ounce cups hold plants for about 7-10 days after germina- tion. Sixteen ounce cups holds plants 10-20 days, as long as the plants receive frequent water replenishments. Half gallon containers can support plants for 25-40 days. Plants probably grow a bit faster without being transplanted. However, the saving in space for a multi-crop system or even a multi4ight system more than compensates for the loss in growth rate. Figure that each transplanting costs the plants 3-4 days of growth. Growers using a 2 light system need to use only one lamp for the first 4-6 weeks the plants are growing. Multi-crop gardens need to use only a fraction of the space for the first 3 to 8 weeks after germination. Some growers sex the plants before either the first or second transplanting. They find it easier to control the light-darkness cycle in a small space. Another crop's flowering cycle may coincide with the seedlings. To sex the small plants, only a small area is required in the grow room. A good rule of thumb is that for each two feet of growth, a half gallon of growing medium is required in a garden in which fer- tilizers are supplied throughout the growing period. A 2 foot plant requires a ½ gallon container, a 5 foot plant uses a 2½ gallon con- tainer and a 10 foot plant requires a 5 gallon unit. Of course, plants' width or depth varies too, so these are approximations. Certainly there is no harm done in growing a plant in a container larger than is required. However, growing plants in containers which are too small delays growth or may even stunt the plants. Plants growing in soil or compost-based mediums do better in slightly larger containers. A rule of thumb for them is a 3A gallon medium for each foot of growth. A 5 foot plant requires a 3 3A gallon containers. One grower wrote "I never use more than 4 gallon containers and have grown plants to 12 feet high with no signs of deficiencies. I was able to water at 2-3 day intervals. My 3 month old plants under light were in ½ gallon containers with and without wicks." This grower always uses small (½ gallon) containers for his spring greenhouse crop. A plant growing in an organic-based medium such as soil- compost-manure and additives needs no fertilization if it is given a large enough container. For a five month growing season, plants in a rich mixture require 1 to 1½ gallons medium per foot. A 5 foot plant requires a container holding 5-7 ½ gallons. Containers should have a slight graduation so that plants and medium can slide out easily. Plastic containers or pots are the most convenient to use. They are lightweight, do not break and are inert. Metal containers react with the nutrients in the solution. Plastic bags are convenient con- tainers. Grow bags have a square bottom so that they balance easi- ly. However growers use all kinds of plastic bags for cultivation. Fiber containers are also popular. They are inexpensive, last several growing seasons and are easy to dispose of. PART IV. Planting Chapter Nineteen When to Plant Marijuana growers using only artificial light can start at any time since the grower determines the plant's environment and stimulates seasonal variations by adjusting the light/darkness periods. Gardeners using natural light either as a primary or secondary source must take the seasons into account. They plant in the spring - from April through June. These plants will be harvested between September and November and no artificial light may be needed as long as there is plenty of direct sunshine. Supplemental artificial light may help the plants to maturity in the fall, when the sun's in- tensity declines and there are overcast days. The angle of the sun's path changes over the season too. Areas may receive indirect sun during part of the growing season. In overcast areas, and even sun- ny places receiving direct sunlight, 4-6 hours of supplemental metal halide light during the brightest part of the day is all that is needed during September/October to help the buds mature. One lamp will cover about 100 square feet or an area 10 by 10 feet. Growers using natural light are not restricted to one season. It is feasible to grow 3 or 4 crops a year using supplemental light. In early October, before the plants are harvested, seeds are started in a separate area. Since little room is needed for the first few weeks, they can be germinated on a shelf. In addition to natural light, the plants should get a minimum of 6 hours of artificial light per day at the rate of about 10 watts per square foot. For fastest growth, the plants should receive 24 hours of light a day. Seedlings may receive light only during normal day light hours except that they require an interruption of the night cycle so they do not go into the flowering stage prematurely. If metal halide lamps are being used, a separate light system should be installed with in- candescent or fluorescent lights on a timer so that the seedlings do not have a long period of uninterrupted darkness. One 60 watt in- candescent bulb or one 22 watt fluorescent tube is used per square yard (3 by 3 feet). The bulbs can be flashed on for a few minutes us- ing a multi-cycle timer during the middle of the dark period. Gardeners with large spaces sometimes stagger the timing of the night lights. Incandescent bulbs are not very efficient, but they provide enough light to prevent flowering, they are easy and inexpensive to set up and maintain, and they light up almost immediately. In addi- tion, they emit a high percentage of red light, which is part of the spectrum used by plants to regulate photoperiod responses. Metal halides require about 10 minutes to attain full brightness. Metal halide ballasts wear out faster when they are turned on and off a lot, so it is cheaper to flash incandescents. In late December, the incandescents are turned off so that they no longer interrupt the night cycle. Within a week or two the plants will begin to flower. They will be ready to harvest in 6 or 8 weeks. At the same time that the incandescents are turned off the winter crop, seeds are started for the spring crop. They are kept on the interrupted night regimen until late winter, around March 1-10. The plants will begin to flower and be ready in late May and early June. The spring crop should be planted with short season plants so that they do not revert back to vegetative growth as the days get longer. Long season varieties are more likely to revert. After the flowers are formed, the spring crop plants will revert back to vegetative growth. New leaves will appear and the plant will show renewed vigor. The plant can be harvested again in the fall, or new seeds can be germinated for the fall crop. One grower reported that he makes full use of his greenhouse. He starts his plants indoors in late November and starts the flower- ing cycle in the beginning of February. The plants are ripe by the end of April, then he lets the plants go back into vegetative growth for a month and a half. Then he starts to shade them again and harvests in late August. Next he puts out new, month-old, foot-high plants. He lets them grow under natural light, but breaks the darkness cycle using incandescent lights. In mid-September he shuts the lights off, and the plants mature in early November.

07-08-2008, 04:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
spacedout420 My Mood: Join Date: Jun 2008 Gender: Location: NC Posts: 19 gRamz: 1,824 Danks: 0 Danked 2 Times in 2 Posts Nominated 0 Times in 0 Posts TOTW/F/M Award(s): 0	Re: Containers Hey thanks man sure helps me out, because i had been wondering about the container sizes.
	When you smoke herb it reveals you to yourself. All the wickedness you do is revealed by the herb. It is your conscience and gives you a clearer picture of yourself, Bob Marley

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