Nutrients

BobNarley · 05-30-2008, 10:40 AM

Nutrients
Marijuana requires a total of 14 nutrients which it obtains
through its roots. Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), and Potassium
(K) are called the macro-nutrients because they are used in large
quantities by the plant. The percentages of N, P, and K are always
listed in the same order on fertilizer packages.
Calcium (Ca), sulfur (S), and magnesium (Mg) are also re-
quired by the plants in fairly large quantities. These are often called
the secondary nutrients.
Smaller amounts of iron (Fe), zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn),
boron (B), cobalt (Co), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo) and
chlorine (Cl) are also needed. These are called micro-nutrients.
Marijuana requires more N before flowering than later in its
cycle. When it begins to flower, marijuana's use of P increases.
Potassium requirements increase after plants are fertilized as a
result of seed production.
Plants which are being grown in soil mixes or mixes with
nutrients added such as compost, manure or time-release fertilizers
may need no additional fertilizing or only supplemental amounts if
the plants begin to show deficiencies.
The two easiest and most reliable ways to meet the plant's
needs are to use a prepared hydroponic fertilizer or an organic
water-soluble fertilizer. Hydroponic fertilizers are blended as com-
plete balanced formulas. Most non-hydroponic fertilizers usually
contain only the macronutrients, N, P and K. Organic fertilizers
such as fish emulsion and other blends contain trace elements which

are found in the organic matter from which they are derived.
Most indoor plant fertilizers are water-soluble. A few of them
are time-release formulas which are mixed into the medium as it is
being prepared. Plants grown in soil mixes can usually get along us-
ing regular fertilizers but plants grown in prepared soilless mixes
definitely require micronutrients.
As the seeds germinate they are given a nutrient solution high
in N such as a 20-10-10 or 17-10-12. These are just two possible
formulas; any with a high proportion of N will do.
Formulas which are not especially high in N can be used and
supplemented with a high N fertilizer such as fish emulsion (which
may create an odor) or the Sudbury X® component fertilizer which
is listed as 44-0-0. Urine is also very high in N and is easily absorb-
ed by the plants. It should be diluted to one cup urine per gallon of
water.
The plants should be kept on a high N fertilizer regimen until
they are put into the flowering regimen.
During the flowering cycle, the plants do best with a formula
lower in N and higher in P, which promotes bloom. A fertilizer
such as 5-20-10 or 10-19-12 will do. (Once again, these are typical
formulas, similar ones will do).
Growers who make their own nutrient mixes based on parts per
million of nutrient generally use the following formulas.

CHART 15-1: NUTRIENT/WATER SOLUTION IN PARTS PER MILLION (PPM)
N P K
Germination - 15 to 20 days 110-150 70-100 50-75
Fast Growth 200-250 60-80 150-200
Pre-Flowering 70-100 100-150 75-100
2 weeks before turning light down
Flowering 0-50 100-150 50-75
Seeding - fertilized flowers 100-200 70-100 100-150

Plants can be grown using a nutrient solution containing no N
for the last 10 days. Many of the larger leaves yellow and wither as
the N migrates from old to the new growth. The buds are less green
and have less of a minty (chlorophyll) taste.
Many cultivators use several brands and formulas of fertilizer.
They either mix them together in solution or switch brands each
feeding.
Plant N requirements vary by weather as well as growth cycle.
Plants growing under hot conditions are given 10-20% less N or
else they tend to elongate and to grow thinner, weaker stalks. Plants
in a cool or cold regimen may be given 10-20% more N. More N is
given under high light conditions, less is used under low light
conditions.
Organic growers can make "teas" from organic nutrients by
soaking them in water. Organic nutrients usually contain

micronutrients as well as the primary ones. Manures and blood
meal are among the most popular organic teas, but other organic
sources of nutrients include urine, which may be the best source for
N, as well as blood meal and tankage. Organic fertilizers vary in
their formulas. The exact formula is usually listed on the label.
Here is a list of common organic fertilizers which can be used
to make teas:
CHART 15-2: ORGANIC FERTILIZERS
Fertilizer N P K Remarks
Bloodmeal 15 1.3 .7 Releases nutrients easily
Cow manure 1.5 .85 1.75 The classic tea. Well-
(dried) balanced formula. Medium
availability.
Dried blood 13 3 0 Nutrients dissolve easier
than bloodmeal.
Chicken manure 3.5 1.5 .85 Excellent nutrients.
Wood ashes 0 1.5 7 Water-soluble. Very alkaline
except with acid wood such
as walnut.
Granite dust 0 0 5 Dissolves slowly
Rock phospate 0 33 0 Dissolves gradually.
(phosphorous)
Urine (human, .5 .003 .003 N immediately available.
fresh)

Commercial water-soluble fertilizers are available. Fish emul-
sion fertilizer comes in 5-1-1 and 5-2-2 formulas and has been used
by satisfied growers for years.
A grower cannot go wrong changing hydroponic
water/nutrient solutions at least once a month. Once every two
weeks is even better. The old solution could be measured, refor-
Inulated, supplemented and re-used; unless large amounts of fer-
tilizer are used, such as in a large commercial greenhouse, it is not
worth the effort. The old solution may have many nutrients left,
but it may be unbalanced since the plants have drawn specific
chemicals. The water can be used to water houseplants or an out-
door garden, or to enrich a compost pile.
Experienced growers fertilize by eyeing the plants and trying to
determine their needs when minor symptoms of deficiencies become
apparent. If the nutrient added cures the deficiency, the plant
usually responds in apparent ways within one or two days. First the
spread of the symptom stops. With some minerals, plant parts that
were not too badly damaged begin to repair themselves. Plant parts
which were slightly discolored may return to normal. Plant parts
which were severely damaged or suffered from necrosis do not
recover. The most dramatic changes usually appear in new growth.
These parts grow normally. A grower can tell just by plant parts
which part grew before deficiencies were corrected.
Fertilizers should be applied on the low side of recommended

rates. Overdoses quickly (within hours) result in wilting and then
death. The symptoms are a sudden wilt with leaves curled under. To
save plants suffering from toxic overdoses of nutrients, plain water
is run through systems to wash out the medium.
Gardens with drainage can be cared for using a method com-
mercial nurseries employ. The plants are watered each time with a
dilute nutrient/water solution, usually 20-25% of full strength. Ex-
cess water runs off. While this method uses more water and
nutrients than other techniqes, it is easy to set up and maintain.
When nutrient deficiencies occur, especially multiple or micro-
nutrient deficiencies, there is a good chance that the minerals are
locked up (precipitated) because of pH. Rather than just adding
more nutrients, the pH must be checked first. If needed, the pH
must be changed by adjusting the water.
If the pH is too high, the water is made a lower pH than it
would ordinarily be; if too low the water is made a higher pH. To
get nutrients to the plant parts immediately, a dilute foliar spray is
used. If the plant does not respond to the foliar spray, it is being
treated with the wrong nutrient.
NUTRIENTS

Nitrogen (N)
Marijuana uses more N than any other nutrient. It is used in
the manufacture of chlorophyll. N migrates from old growth to
new, so that a shortage is likely to cause first pale green leaves and
then the yellowing and withering of the lowest leaves as the nitrogen
travels to new buds. Other deficiency symptoms include smaller
leaves, slow growth and a sparse rather than bushy profile.
N-deficient plants respond quickly to fertilization. Within a
day or two, pale leaves become greener and the rate and size of new
growth increases. Good water-soluble sources of nitrogen include
most indoor and hydroponic fertilizers, fish emulsion, and urine,
along with teas made from manures, dried blood or bloodmeal.
There are many organic additives which release N over a period of
time that can be added to the medium at the time of planting. These
include manures, blood, cottonseed meal, hair, fur, or tankage.

Phosphorous (P)
P is used by plants in the transfer of light energy to chemical
compounds. It is also used in large quantities for root growth and
flowering. Marijuana uses P mostly during early growth and
flowering.
Fertilizers and nutrient mixes usually supply adequate amounts
of P during growth stages so plants usually do not experience a defi-
ciency. Rock phosphate and bone meal are the organic fertilizers
usually recommended for P deficiency. However they release the
mineral slowly, and are more suited to outdoor gardening than in-

doors. They can be added to mediums to supplement soluble fer-
tilizers.
P-deficient plants have small dark green leaves, with red stems
and red veins. The tips of lower leaves sometimes die. Eventually
the entire lower leaves yellow and die. Fertilization affects only new
growth.
Marijuana uses large quantities of P during flowering. Many
fertilizer manufacturers sell mixes high in P specifically for bloom-
ing plants.
Potassium (K)
K is used by plants to regulate carbohydrate metabolism,
chlorophyll synthesis, and protein synthesis as well as to provide
resistance to disease. Adequate amounts of K result in strong, stur-
dy stems while slightly deficient plants often grow taller, thinner
stems. Plants producing seed use large amounts of K. Breeding
plants can be given K supplements to assure well-developed seed.
Symptoms of greater deficiencies are more apparent on the sun
leaves (the large lower leaves). Necrotic patches are found on the
leaf tips and then in patches throughout the leaf. The leaves also
look pale green.
Stems and flowers on some plants turn deep red or purple as a
result of K deficiencies. However, red stems are a genetic
characteristic of some plants so this symptom is not foolproof. Out-
doors, a cold spell can precipitate K and make it unavailable to the
plants, so that almost overnight the flowers and stems turn purple.
K deficiency can be treated with any high-K fertilizer. Old
growth does not absorb the nutrient and will not be affected.
However, new growth will show no signs of deficiency within 2
weeks. For faster results the fertilizer can be used as a foliar spray.
K deficiency does not seem to be a crucial problem. Except for the
few symptoms, plants do not seem to be affected by it.

Calcium (Ca)
Ca is used during cell splitting, and to build the cell mem-
branes. Marijuana also stores "excess" Ca for reasons unknown. I
have never seen a case of Ca deficiency in cannabis. Soils and fer-
tilizers usually contain adequate amounts. It should be added to
planting mixes when they are being formulated at the rate of 1
tablespoon per gallon or ½ cup per cubic foot of medium.
Sulfur (S)
S is used by the plant to help regulate metabolism, and as a
constituent of some vitamins, amino acids and proteins. It is plen-
tiful in soil and hydroponic mixes.
S deficiencies are rare. First, new growth yellows and the entire
plant pales.
S deficiencies are easily solved using Epsom salts at the rate of
1 tablespoon per gallon of water.

Magnesium (Mg)
Mg is the central atom in chlorophyll and is also used in pro-
duction of carbohydrates. (Chlorophyll looks just like hemoglobin
in blood, but has a Mg atom. Hemoglobin has an Fe atom). In pot-
ted plants, Mg deficiency is fairly common, since many otherwise
well-balanced fertilizers do not contain it.
Deficiency symptoms start on the lower leaves which turn
yellow, leaving only the veins green. The leaves curl up and die
along the tips and edges. Growing shoots are pale green and, as the
condition continues, turn almost white.
Mg deficiency is easily treated using Epsom salts (MgSO4) at
the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. For faster results, a
foliar spray is used. Once Mg deficiency occurs, Epsom salts should
be added to the solution each time it is changed. Dolomitic
limestone contains large amounts of Mg.

Iron (Fe)
Fe deficiency is not uncommon. The growing shoots are pale
or white, leaving only dark green veins. The symptoms appear
similar to Mg deficiencies but Fe deficiencies do not affect the lower
leaves. Fe deficiencies are often the result of acid-alkalinity im-
balances.
Fe deficiencies sometimes occur together with zinc (Zn) and
manganese (Mn) deficiencies so that several symptoms appear
simultaneously.
Deficiencies can be corrected by adjusting the pH, adding rusty
water to the medium, or using a commercial supplement. Fe sup-
plements are sold alone or in a mix combined with Zn and Mn. To
prevent deficiencies, some growers add a few rusting nails to each
container. One grower using a reservoir system added a pound of
nails to the holding tank. The nails added Fe to the nutrient solu-
tion as they rusted. Dilute foliar sprays can be used to treat deficien-
cies.

Manganese (Mn)
Symptoms of Mn deficiency include yellowing and dying of
tissue between veins, first appearing on new growth and then
throughout the plant.
Deficiencies are solved using an Fe-Zn-Mn supplement.

Zinc (Zn)
Zn deficiency is noted first as yellowing and necrosis of older

leaf margins and tips and then as twisted, curled new growth. Treat-
ment with a Fe-Zn-Mn supplement quickly relieves symptoms. A
foliar spray speeds the nutrients to the leaf tissue.

Boron (B)
B deficiency is uncommon and does not usually occur indoors.
Symptoms of B deficiency start at the growing tips, which turn
grey or brown and then die. This spreads to the lateral shoots.
A B deficiency is treated by using ½ teaspoon boric acid,
available in pharmacies, added to a gallon of water. One treatment
is usually sufficient.
Mojybdennm (Mo)
Mo is used by plants in the conversion of N to forms that the
plant can use. It is also a constituent of some enzymes. Deficiency is
unusual indoors.
Symptoms start with paleness, then yellowing of middle leaves
which progress to the new shoots and growing tips, which grow
twisted. The early symptoms almost mimic N deficiency. Treatment
with N may temporarily relieve the symptoms but they return
within a few weeks.
Mo is included in hydroponic fertilizers and in some trace ele-
ment mixes. It can be used as a foliar spray.

Copper (Cu)
Cu is used by plants in the transfer of electrical charges which
are manipulated by the plant to absorb nutrients and water. It is
also used in the regulation of water content and is a constituent of
some enzymes.
Cu deficiencies are rare and mimic symptoms of overfertiliza-
tion. The leaves are limp and turn under at the edges. Tips and
edges of the leaves may die and whole plant looks wilted.
A fungicide, copper sulfate, (CuSO4) can be used as a foliar
spray to relieve the deficiency.
NUTRIENT ADDITIVES

Various additives are often suggested to boost the nutrient
value of the water/nutrient solution. Here are some of them:
WETTING AGENTS. Water holds together through surface
tension, preventing it from dispersing easily over dry surfaces. Wet-
ting agents decrease the surface tension and allow the water to easily
penetrate evenly throughout the medium, preventing dry spots.
Wetting agents are helpful when they are used with fresh medium
and as an occasional additive. Wetting agents should not be used on
a regular basis. They may interfere with plants' ability to grow root
hairs, which are ordinarily found on the roots. They are available at

most plant nurseries.
SEAWEED. Washed, ground seaweed contains many trace
elements and minerals used by plants. It may also contain some
hormones or organic nutrients not yet identified.
KELP. Kelp seems to be similar to seaweed in nutrient value.
Proponents claim that it has other, as yet undefined organic
chemicals that boost plant growth.
SEA WATER. Salt water contains many trace elements and
organic compounds. Some hydroponists claim that adding 5-10%
sea water to the nutrient solution prevents trace element problems.
It may be risky.
Chapter Seventeen
Novel Gardens
Many people who would like to grow their own think that they
don't have the space. There are novel techniques that people can
use to grow grass anywhere. Even people with only a closet, crawl
space or just a shelf can grow their own.
The smallest space that can be used is a shelf 15-24 inches high.
First, the space should be prepared as any other garden by making
it reflective, using flat white paint, the dull side of aluminum foil,
or white plastic. Fluorescents are the easiest and best way to il-
luminate the space. About twenty watts per square foot are used, or
two tubes per foot of width. VHO fluorescents can be used to
deliver more light to the system.
Plants can be started in 6 ounce cups or 8 to 16 ounce milk car-
tons placed in trays for easier handling.
With a shelf 3 feet or higher, plants can be grown in larger con-
tainers such as 4 or 6 inch pots, half gallon milk containers trimmed
to hold only a quart.
The plants can be grown vertically only, as they normally
grow, or moved to a horizontal position so that the main stem runs
parallel to the light tubes. The plants' new growth will immediately
face upwards toward the light. One gardener used an attic space on-
ly 4 feet tall. She let the plants grow until they reached 3 feet and
and then turned them on their side. They used more floor space so
she opened up a second bank of lights. At maturity, the plants were
3½ feet long and 2½ feet tall.
Another grower turned his basement with an 8 foot ceiling into
a duplex growing chamber. Each unit had 3 foot tall plants.
If the plants are to be turned horizontally, then they are best
gr6wn in plastic bags or styrofoam cups so that they can be watered
easily in their new positions. After being turned on the side, a hole
is cut in the new top so the plants can be watered easily.
Some growers have wall space without much depth. This space
can be converted to a growing area very easily. The space is painted
White and a curtain is made so that the space is separated from the
surrounding environment; this will keep light in and offers protec-
tion from nosey guests.
The fluorescents should be placed so that they form a bank
facing the plants. Although the plants naturally spread out, their

depth or width can be controlled by training them using stakes or
chicken wire placed on a frame. Wire or plastic netting is attached
to the walls so that there is at least a 1 inch space between the wire
and the wall. Some people build a frame out of 2 x 4's. Twist ties
are used to hold the branches to the frame. Additional light can be
supplied by placing a fluorescent unit on either end of the garden or
along its length.
Growers who have a little more space for their garden, with a
minimum width of 1 or 2 feet, can grow plants without training
them. Fluorescent lights can be used to light the garden by hanging
the light fixture from the top. All sides should be covered with
reflective material. A metal halide lamp mounted on a movable ap-
paratus will help the plants grow even faster so that the entire
garden is illuminated several times during each light cycle.
Some people can spare only a small closet. Closets usually are
designed in one of two shapes: square or long and rectangular. In
any closet up to six feet long the simplest way to grow is by painting
the inside of the closet white and hanging a metal halide light from
the ceiling. Closets with dimensions of S x S or less need only a 400
watt metal halide although they can accomodate 1000 watt lamps.
Larger areas need at least two 400 watt halide lamps.
Thin, rectangular closets are served best by a metal halide unit
mounted on a solar shuttle type device. A fluorescent light unit
hung from above the garden also works well. Additional fluores-
oent tubes can be used to supplement the top lights. It is convenient
to mount them on either end of the hanging fixture if the closet is
long enough so that they do not use potential growing space. A
closet 2 feet by 7 feet might be illuminated by a 400 watt metal
halide on a track, two 6 foot long VHOs or 4 regular fluorescent
tubes hung from the ceiling. A grower might also use 14 screwAn 8
inch circular reflectors mounted on two 2 x 4s and hung above the
garden. About 8 combination 8 and 12 inch circular fixtures will
also light the area.
As the plants grow taller, fluorescent lit gardens will respond to
fluorescent tubes placed on the sides of the garden below the tops of
the plants. This light will help lower buds develop.
One of the main problems inherent in the nature of small
gardens is the lack of ventilation and C02. For good growth rates
the air should be enriched with C02 or provided with a fan for ven-
tilation.

babyboy1050 · 07-13-2008, 04:55 AM

where can you find i cheap but all around good plant food or what brand would you recomend on a budget

05-30-2008, 10:40 AM	#1 (permalink)
BobNarley My Mood: Join Date: May 2007 Location: Mojove Desert-Southern California Posts: 530 gRamz: 13,382 Danks: 26 Danked 17 Times in 14 Posts	Nutrients Nutrients Marijuana requires a total of 14 nutrients which it obtains through its roots. Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), and Potassium (K) are called the macro-nutrients because they are used in large quantities by the plant. The percentages of N, P, and K are always listed in the same order on fertilizer packages. Calcium (Ca), sulfur (S), and magnesium (Mg) are also re- quired by the plants in fairly large quantities. These are often called the secondary nutrients. Smaller amounts of iron (Fe), zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), boron (B), cobalt (Co), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo) and chlorine (Cl) are also needed. These are called micro-nutrients. Marijuana requires more N before flowering than later in its cycle. When it begins to flower, marijuana's use of P increases. Potassium requirements increase after plants are fertilized as a result of seed production. Plants which are being grown in soil mixes or mixes with nutrients added such as compost, manure or time-release fertilizers may need no additional fertilizing or only supplemental amounts if the plants begin to show deficiencies. The two easiest and most reliable ways to meet the plant's needs are to use a prepared hydroponic fertilizer or an organic water-soluble fertilizer. Hydroponic fertilizers are blended as com- plete balanced formulas. Most non-hydroponic fertilizers usually contain only the macronutrients, N, P and K. Organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion and other blends contain trace elements which are found in the organic matter from which they are derived. Most indoor plant fertilizers are water-soluble. A few of them are time-release formulas which are mixed into the medium as it is being prepared. Plants grown in soil mixes can usually get along us- ing regular fertilizers but plants grown in prepared soilless mixes definitely require micronutrients. As the seeds germinate they are given a nutrient solution high in N such as a 20-10-10 or 17-10-12. These are just two possible formulas; any with a high proportion of N will do. Formulas which are not especially high in N can be used and supplemented with a high N fertilizer such as fish emulsion (which may create an odor) or the Sudbury X® component fertilizer which is listed as 44-0-0. Urine is also very high in N and is easily absorb- ed by the plants. It should be diluted to one cup urine per gallon of water. The plants should be kept on a high N fertilizer regimen until they are put into the flowering regimen. During the flowering cycle, the plants do best with a formula lower in N and higher in P, which promotes bloom. A fertilizer such as 5-20-10 or 10-19-12 will do. (Once again, these are typical formulas, similar ones will do). Growers who make their own nutrient mixes based on parts per million of nutrient generally use the following formulas. CHART 15-1: NUTRIENT/WATER SOLUTION IN PARTS PER MILLION (PPM) N P K Germination - 15 to 20 days 110-150 70-100 50-75 Fast Growth 200-250 60-80 150-200 Pre-Flowering 70-100 100-150 75-100 2 weeks before turning light down Flowering 0-50 100-150 50-75 Seeding - fertilized flowers 100-200 70-100 100-150 Plants can be grown using a nutrient solution containing no N for the last 10 days. Many of the larger leaves yellow and wither as the N migrates from old to the new growth. The buds are less green and have less of a minty (chlorophyll) taste. Many cultivators use several brands and formulas of fertilizer. They either mix them together in solution or switch brands each feeding. Plant N requirements vary by weather as well as growth cycle. Plants growing under hot conditions are given 10-20% less N or else they tend to elongate and to grow thinner, weaker stalks. Plants in a cool or cold regimen may be given 10-20% more N. More N is given under high light conditions, less is used under low light conditions. Organic growers can make "teas" from organic nutrients by soaking them in water. Organic nutrients usually contain micronutrients as well as the primary ones. Manures and blood meal are among the most popular organic teas, but other organic sources of nutrients include urine, which may be the best source for N, as well as blood meal and tankage. Organic fertilizers vary in their formulas. The exact formula is usually listed on the label. Here is a list of common organic fertilizers which can be used to make teas: CHART 15-2: ORGANIC FERTILIZERS Fertilizer N P K Remarks Bloodmeal 15 1.3 .7 Releases nutrients easily Cow manure 1.5 .85 1.75 The classic tea. Well- (dried) balanced formula. Medium availability. Dried blood 13 3 0 Nutrients dissolve easier than bloodmeal. Chicken manure 3.5 1.5 .85 Excellent nutrients. Wood ashes 0 1.5 7 Water-soluble. Very alkaline except with acid wood such as walnut. Granite dust 0 0 5 Dissolves slowly Rock phospate 0 33 0 Dissolves gradually. (phosphorous) Urine (human, .5 .003 .003 N immediately available. fresh) Commercial water-soluble fertilizers are available. Fish emul- sion fertilizer comes in 5-1-1 and 5-2-2 formulas and has been used by satisfied growers for years. A grower cannot go wrong changing hydroponic water/nutrient solutions at least once a month. Once every two weeks is even better. The old solution could be measured, refor- Inulated, supplemented and re-used; unless large amounts of fer- tilizer are used, such as in a large commercial greenhouse, it is not worth the effort. The old solution may have many nutrients left, but it may be unbalanced since the plants have drawn specific chemicals. The water can be used to water houseplants or an out- door garden, or to enrich a compost pile. Experienced growers fertilize by eyeing the plants and trying to determine their needs when minor symptoms of deficiencies become apparent. If the nutrient added cures the deficiency, the plant usually responds in apparent ways within one or two days. First the spread of the symptom stops. With some minerals, plant parts that were not too badly damaged begin to repair themselves. Plant parts which were slightly discolored may return to normal. Plant parts which were severely damaged or suffered from necrosis do not recover. The most dramatic changes usually appear in new growth. These parts grow normally. A grower can tell just by plant parts which part grew before deficiencies were corrected. Fertilizers should be applied on the low side of recommended rates. Overdoses quickly (within hours) result in wilting and then death. The symptoms are a sudden wilt with leaves curled under. To save plants suffering from toxic overdoses of nutrients, plain water is run through systems to wash out the medium. Gardens with drainage can be cared for using a method com- mercial nurseries employ. The plants are watered each time with a dilute nutrient/water solution, usually 20-25% of full strength. Ex- cess water runs off. While this method uses more water and nutrients than other techniqes, it is easy to set up and maintain. When nutrient deficiencies occur, especially multiple or micro- nutrient deficiencies, there is a good chance that the minerals are locked up (precipitated) because of pH. Rather than just adding more nutrients, the pH must be checked first. If needed, the pH must be changed by adjusting the water. If the pH is too high, the water is made a lower pH than it would ordinarily be; if too low the water is made a higher pH. To get nutrients to the plant parts immediately, a dilute foliar spray is used. If the plant does not respond to the foliar spray, it is being treated with the wrong nutrient. NUTRIENTS Nitrogen (N) Marijuana uses more N than any other nutrient. It is used in the manufacture of chlorophyll. N migrates from old growth to new, so that a shortage is likely to cause first pale green leaves and then the yellowing and withering of the lowest leaves as the nitrogen travels to new buds. Other deficiency symptoms include smaller leaves, slow growth and a sparse rather than bushy profile. N-deficient plants respond quickly to fertilization. Within a day or two, pale leaves become greener and the rate and size of new growth increases. Good water-soluble sources of nitrogen include most indoor and hydroponic fertilizers, fish emulsion, and urine, along with teas made from manures, dried blood or bloodmeal. There are many organic additives which release N over a period of time that can be added to the medium at the time of planting. These include manures, blood, cottonseed meal, hair, fur, or tankage. Phosphorous (P) P is used by plants in the transfer of light energy to chemical compounds. It is also used in large quantities for root growth and flowering. Marijuana uses P mostly during early growth and flowering. Fertilizers and nutrient mixes usually supply adequate amounts of P during growth stages so plants usually do not experience a defi- ciency. Rock phosphate and bone meal are the organic fertilizers usually recommended for P deficiency. However they release the mineral slowly, and are more suited to outdoor gardening than in- doors. They can be added to mediums to supplement soluble fer- tilizers. P-deficient plants have small dark green leaves, with red stems and red veins. The tips of lower leaves sometimes die. Eventually the entire lower leaves yellow and die. Fertilization affects only new growth. Marijuana uses large quantities of P during flowering. Many fertilizer manufacturers sell mixes high in P specifically for bloom- ing plants. Potassium (K) K is used by plants to regulate carbohydrate metabolism, chlorophyll synthesis, and protein synthesis as well as to provide resistance to disease. Adequate amounts of K result in strong, stur- dy stems while slightly deficient plants often grow taller, thinner stems. Plants producing seed use large amounts of K. Breeding plants can be given K supplements to assure well-developed seed. Symptoms of greater deficiencies are more apparent on the sun leaves (the large lower leaves). Necrotic patches are found on the leaf tips and then in patches throughout the leaf. The leaves also look pale green. Stems and flowers on some plants turn deep red or purple as a result of K deficiencies. However, red stems are a genetic characteristic of some plants so this symptom is not foolproof. Out- doors, a cold spell can precipitate K and make it unavailable to the plants, so that almost overnight the flowers and stems turn purple. K deficiency can be treated with any high-K fertilizer. Old growth does not absorb the nutrient and will not be affected. However, new growth will show no signs of deficiency within 2 weeks. For faster results the fertilizer can be used as a foliar spray. K deficiency does not seem to be a crucial problem. Except for the few symptoms, plants do not seem to be affected by it. Calcium (Ca) Ca is used during cell splitting, and to build the cell mem- branes. Marijuana also stores "excess" Ca for reasons unknown. I have never seen a case of Ca deficiency in cannabis. Soils and fer- tilizers usually contain adequate amounts. It should be added to planting mixes when they are being formulated at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon or ½ cup per cubic foot of medium. Sulfur (S) S is used by the plant to help regulate metabolism, and as a constituent of some vitamins, amino acids and proteins. It is plen- tiful in soil and hydroponic mixes. S deficiencies are rare. First, new growth yellows and the entire plant pales. S deficiencies are easily solved using Epsom salts at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Magnesium (Mg) Mg is the central atom in chlorophyll and is also used in pro- duction of carbohydrates. (Chlorophyll looks just like hemoglobin in blood, but has a Mg atom. Hemoglobin has an Fe atom). In pot- ted plants, Mg deficiency is fairly common, since many otherwise well-balanced fertilizers do not contain it. Deficiency symptoms start on the lower leaves which turn yellow, leaving only the veins green. The leaves curl up and die along the tips and edges. Growing shoots are pale green and, as the condition continues, turn almost white. Mg deficiency is easily treated using Epsom salts (MgSO4) at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. For faster results, a foliar spray is used. Once Mg deficiency occurs, Epsom salts should be added to the solution each time it is changed. Dolomitic limestone contains large amounts of Mg. Iron (Fe) Fe deficiency is not uncommon. The growing shoots are pale or white, leaving only dark green veins. The symptoms appear similar to Mg deficiencies but Fe deficiencies do not affect the lower leaves. Fe deficiencies are often the result of acid-alkalinity im- balances. Fe deficiencies sometimes occur together with zinc (Zn) and manganese (Mn) deficiencies so that several symptoms appear simultaneously. Deficiencies can be corrected by adjusting the pH, adding rusty water to the medium, or using a commercial supplement. Fe sup- plements are sold alone or in a mix combined with Zn and Mn. To prevent deficiencies, some growers add a few rusting nails to each container. One grower using a reservoir system added a pound of nails to the holding tank. The nails added Fe to the nutrient solu- tion as they rusted. Dilute foliar sprays can be used to treat deficien- cies. Manganese (Mn) Symptoms of Mn deficiency include yellowing and dying of tissue between veins, first appearing on new growth and then throughout the plant. Deficiencies are solved using an Fe-Zn-Mn supplement. Zinc (Zn) Zn deficiency is noted first as yellowing and necrosis of older leaf margins and tips and then as twisted, curled new growth. Treat- ment with a Fe-Zn-Mn supplement quickly relieves symptoms. A foliar spray speeds the nutrients to the leaf tissue. Boron (B) B deficiency is uncommon and does not usually occur indoors. Symptoms of B deficiency start at the growing tips, which turn grey or brown and then die. This spreads to the lateral shoots. A B deficiency is treated by using ½ teaspoon boric acid, available in pharmacies, added to a gallon of water. One treatment is usually sufficient. Mojybdennm (Mo) Mo is used by plants in the conversion of N to forms that the plant can use. It is also a constituent of some enzymes. Deficiency is unusual indoors. Symptoms start with paleness, then yellowing of middle leaves which progress to the new shoots and growing tips, which grow twisted. The early symptoms almost mimic N deficiency. Treatment with N may temporarily relieve the symptoms but they return within a few weeks. Mo is included in hydroponic fertilizers and in some trace ele- ment mixes. It can be used as a foliar spray. Copper (Cu) Cu is used by plants in the transfer of electrical charges which are manipulated by the plant to absorb nutrients and water. It is also used in the regulation of water content and is a constituent of some enzymes. Cu deficiencies are rare and mimic symptoms of overfertiliza- tion. The leaves are limp and turn under at the edges. Tips and edges of the leaves may die and whole plant looks wilted. A fungicide, copper sulfate, (CuSO4) can be used as a foliar spray to relieve the deficiency. NUTRIENT ADDITIVES Various additives are often suggested to boost the nutrient value of the water/nutrient solution. Here are some of them: WETTING AGENTS. Water holds together through surface tension, preventing it from dispersing easily over dry surfaces. Wet- ting agents decrease the surface tension and allow the water to easily penetrate evenly throughout the medium, preventing dry spots. Wetting agents are helpful when they are used with fresh medium and as an occasional additive. Wetting agents should not be used on a regular basis. They may interfere with plants' ability to grow root hairs, which are ordinarily found on the roots. They are available at most plant nurseries. SEAWEED. Washed, ground seaweed contains many trace elements and minerals used by plants. It may also contain some hormones or organic nutrients not yet identified. KELP. Kelp seems to be similar to seaweed in nutrient value. Proponents claim that it has other, as yet undefined organic chemicals that boost plant growth. SEA WATER. Salt water contains many trace elements and organic compounds. Some hydroponists claim that adding 5-10% sea water to the nutrient solution prevents trace element problems. It may be risky. Chapter Seventeen Novel Gardens Many people who would like to grow their own think that they don't have the space. There are novel techniques that people can use to grow grass anywhere. Even people with only a closet, crawl space or just a shelf can grow their own. The smallest space that can be used is a shelf 15-24 inches high. First, the space should be prepared as any other garden by making it reflective, using flat white paint, the dull side of aluminum foil, or white plastic. Fluorescents are the easiest and best way to il- luminate the space. About twenty watts per square foot are used, or two tubes per foot of width. VHO fluorescents can be used to deliver more light to the system. Plants can be started in 6 ounce cups or 8 to 16 ounce milk car- tons placed in trays for easier handling. With a shelf 3 feet or higher, plants can be grown in larger con- tainers such as 4 or 6 inch pots, half gallon milk containers trimmed to hold only a quart. The plants can be grown vertically only, as they normally grow, or moved to a horizontal position so that the main stem runs parallel to the light tubes. The plants' new growth will immediately face upwards toward the light. One gardener used an attic space on- ly 4 feet tall. She let the plants grow until they reached 3 feet and and then turned them on their side. They used more floor space so she opened up a second bank of lights. At maturity, the plants were 3½ feet long and 2½ feet tall. Another grower turned his basement with an 8 foot ceiling into a duplex growing chamber. Each unit had 3 foot tall plants. If the plants are to be turned horizontally, then they are best gr6wn in plastic bags or styrofoam cups so that they can be watered easily in their new positions. After being turned on the side, a hole is cut in the new top so the plants can be watered easily. Some growers have wall space without much depth. This space can be converted to a growing area very easily. The space is painted White and a curtain is made so that the space is separated from the surrounding environment; this will keep light in and offers protec- tion from nosey guests. The fluorescents should be placed so that they form a bank facing the plants. Although the plants naturally spread out, their depth or width can be controlled by training them using stakes or chicken wire placed on a frame. Wire or plastic netting is attached to the walls so that there is at least a 1 inch space between the wire and the wall. Some people build a frame out of 2 x 4's. Twist ties are used to hold the branches to the frame. Additional light can be supplied by placing a fluorescent unit on either end of the garden or along its length. Growers who have a little more space for their garden, with a minimum width of 1 or 2 feet, can grow plants without training them. Fluorescent lights can be used to light the garden by hanging the light fixture from the top. All sides should be covered with reflective material. A metal halide lamp mounted on a movable ap- paratus will help the plants grow even faster so that the entire garden is illuminated several times during each light cycle. Some people can spare only a small closet. Closets usually are designed in one of two shapes: square or long and rectangular. In any closet up to six feet long the simplest way to grow is by painting the inside of the closet white and hanging a metal halide light from the ceiling. Closets with dimensions of S x S or less need only a 400 watt metal halide although they can accomodate 1000 watt lamps. Larger areas need at least two 400 watt halide lamps. Thin, rectangular closets are served best by a metal halide unit mounted on a solar shuttle type device. A fluorescent light unit hung from above the garden also works well. Additional fluores- oent tubes can be used to supplement the top lights. It is convenient to mount them on either end of the hanging fixture if the closet is long enough so that they do not use potential growing space. A closet 2 feet by 7 feet might be illuminated by a 400 watt metal halide on a track, two 6 foot long VHOs or 4 regular fluorescent tubes hung from the ceiling. A grower might also use 14 screwAn 8 inch circular reflectors mounted on two 2 x 4s and hung above the garden. About 8 combination 8 and 12 inch circular fixtures will also light the area. As the plants grow taller, fluorescent lit gardens will respond to fluorescent tubes placed on the sides of the garden below the tops of the plants. This light will help lower buds develop. One of the main problems inherent in the nature of small gardens is the lack of ventilation and C02. For good growth rates the air should be enriched with C02 or provided with a fan for ven- tilation.

07-13-2008, 04:55 AM	#2 (permalink)
babyboy1050 My Mood: Join Date: Jul 2008 Gender: Location: Illinois Posts: 58 gRamz: 1,396 Danks: 8 Danked 0 Times in 0 Posts Nominated 0 Times in 0 Posts TOTW/F/M Award(s): 0	Re: Nutrients where can you find i cheap but all around good plant food or what brand would you recomend on a budget

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode